Do As The Chef Says! May 11, 2008

      

Restaurant: El Olivo, Castillo de Tarjaja, Granada

This place is a high-carat gem. A small, out-of-the-way restaurant made unique by its charismatic chef, Miguel who previously spent many years tickling tastebuds in Andorra. He is renowned, by those ‘in the know’, for effortlessly producing a continual stream of amazing dishes from local ingredients, often adding a subtle, french twist. This man is a culinary wizard. I was very disappointed when he turned down my chocolate mousse-induced proposal of marriage.

 

Do not be disconcerted by the fact that he will not allow you to choose what you’re going to eat! Leisurely pondering over menus is actively discouraged here.  Miguel will sit at your table, in full ‘whites’, tell you what has been concocted for that day and recommend a mix of dishes to share.

 

Two of us had lunch here last week and we shared the following dishes; pate, poached eggs with cod in a cheese sauce, warm sardine and vegetable ‘cake’, goats cheese with almonds and a confit of duck all washed down with a couple of glasses of vino and water. The total bill was 45 euros.

 

The decor is amusingly eclectic (I’ll say no more) and the exterior does nothing to sell the gastronomic experience that awaits. NB: You must book. There are only about 50 covers and this place is always full with locals.

 

Phone:  0034958557493
Address: Calle Constitucion 12, Castillo de Tajarja
Directions: A92 from Granada, direction Malaga. Take turn off for Penuelas and Castillo de Tajarja. Follow country road, passed outskirt of Penuelas onto Castillo. Look out for small green signs for Restaurant Olivo.

CLOSED MONDAYS

Howling with Wolves

      

Lobo Park,  Antequera, Malaga

‘Lobo Park’ is a conservation project set in vast natural park lands. It has been created by a German guy who followed his passion to study and learn more about these much maligned animals. He has built a fascinating haven where he aims to not only build awareness and understanding of these creatures but also to offer real-life insight into hierarchical societies and structures for businesses and organisations. 

 

There are several species of adult and young wolves in huge outdoor enclosures, including the rare white ‘polar’ wolf.  Daniels guided tour is captivating. He has personally hand-reared many of the wolves and to watch him interacting with them can be a heart-racing sight. It’s a great trip for kids too, as there’s also a petting zoo which houses some entertaining characters. (I love the pot-bellied pigs!)

 

If you’re looking for an unusual night out, book a place at a Howling Evening.  You can BBQ in the grounds to a pitch-black backdrop whilst listening to the haunting serenades of the hidden residents. A memorable experience.  

Directions: 10mins outside Antequera on A343
www.lobopark.com

‘The Middle of Somewhere’ May 10, 2008

   

La Cartuja De Cazalla, Seville

This former Carthusian monastery is about an hours drive north of Seville, in Cazalla de la Sierra. It is one of the most unique and life-affecting places I have ever visited.

 

It was found by the indomitable ‘Carmen Ladron de Guevara y Bracho’ when she was in her early 20’s and she has made it her life’s work to restore this mammoth site into a Centre of Contemplorary Art & Culture with accommodation. She is one of the most inspirational women I have ever met and once told me ‘When I found this place, it was in the middle of nowhere and I wanted to make it the middle of somewhere’. She has more than accomplished her mission. This has been her project for over 25yrs now during which time she has valiantly battled with red tape and corruption. Her tale is gripping. She is Spanish but speaks perfect English, has an incredibly dry sense of humour and loves to debate world topics over breakfast, lunch and dinner.

 

The buildings themselves and their surroundings will mesmerise and inspire in equal measures. The sunsets will touch your soul. The fresh water pools will hold you captive.  During my last visit, whilst out walking one day, I was accompanied by a herd of baby wild pigs. They ran alongside me and played like puppies. I felt like a character in a Sylvanian forest tale.

 

There are 2 types of accommodation here. The renovated coaching lodge has small but unique double and single rooms, each decorated with materials from the surrounding land and with original art from one of the many resident artists who have spent time here. There are also 4 suites in the old cloisters and if you’re travelling with friends, one of these can be very economical as they consist of two rooms, one with a double bed and the other with 2 sofas that convert into single beds. All have amazing views and are decorated simply and tastefully with local materials.

 

This is a perfect weekend retreat where you will create memories and go home with tales to tell. Check out flights to Seville now.

http://www.skill.es/cartuja

Clandestine Assignations May 9, 2008

        

Restaurant: Clandestinos, Malaga City

Walk through these unassuming double doors to wooden tables, rough brick walls, low lighting and a welcoming buzz – there is always a buzz. The waitresses are quirky, with cropped hair, piercings, tattoos, skinny vests and an average age of about 20. They’re the funkiest little workers I’ve ever seen. Doesn’t sound like your kind of place? Believe me when I say this is everyone’s kind of place. Diners range from suited business men to eccentric pony-tailed types. All locals. And the draw? The food is out of this world!

Favourite Dish: If you like duck, go for it. I’ve tried it cooked in two different ways and both induced ecstatic gasps from me. The salads are unusual and huge – more than enough for two. I’m not saying any more – go try it. Christine

Address: Calle Nino de Guevara 3, Malaga

Directions: Walk along Calle Larios away from the sea and take exit in far right corner off main square. Keep walking until you see an illuminated green cross/chemist sign. Turn left. The restaurant is about 60yds along on your left.  

Oldest Tapas bar in Malaga

   

CASA DE LA GUARDIA, Malaga City

At first glance, this appears to be an old, traditional bar with a few seasonal tapas available, usually seafood. However, it’s charm lies in the fact that it is filled with HUGE barrels of different types of sherry. You have to take pot luck and point at one, give it a try and then move on to the next. I’ve never been one for the tipple of grandma’s BUT I truly enjoyed my samplings. The bar staff just keep a running tab chalked on the bar next to you. It’s only a small place but is a very popular starting point for an evenings wandering and tapas tasting.

 

Address: Calle Alameda Principal 18
Directions: Look out for the BIG wooden doors. It’s situated on the main drag, the road that runs parrallel along side the port, near the flower sellers, next to large modern book shop.

Shoemakers Cottage

              

FOR SALE 

If you are looking to buy a weekend bolt-hole or a character property to generate holiday rental income,  this renovated Shoemakers Cottage delivers on all fronts. It is a totally unique property bursting with original features which has been furnished, fully equipped and is ready-to-go! It is situated 15mins west of Granada airport, overlooking a picturesque church square, in the town of Salar.

Salar is a small sleepy town during the day that seems to come alive at night as locals meet up at one of the many bars or head out to one of the two buzzing restaurants. There is a municipal swimming pool, schools, new medical centre, dentist, chemist, banks, a gym and shops for most necessities. It also has a weekly fruit and veg market.

It is 30 mins from the lake districts of Bermajales and Iznajar, 15 mins to the town of Alhama, famous for its natural spas and moorish baths and under an hour to both the coast and skiing in the Sierra Nevada.

It has 2 bedrooms, shower room, newly fitted kitchen with granite worksurfaces, spacious lounge, dining room and a small roof terrace overlooking the church. Price 100,000 euros.

For photos and further information email kerry.talkthetalk@telefonica.net  Sold Sept 09 – Still looking for a bolt-hole? Email us.

All Things Artisan

          

Casa de Artesania, Salinas, Malaga

In the North of the Malaga Province, on the road which runs between the villages of Salinas and Villanueva de Tapia, lies an artisan shop/work shop which is open to the public.  All stock is made locally or in-house. You will find glazed ceramics, terracotta pots, hand woven baskets and rugs, olive wood bowls, wall hangings, local produce, hand-made cosmetics and many other things I’ve forgotten.  It’s an andalucian Aladdins cave filled with reasonably priced treasures.

 

Address: Carretera Salinas-Vva de Tapia
Directions: Take A92, turn-off for Salinas, follow signs for Vva de Tapia, about 1mile outside Salinas you will see the solitary building on right hand side with two huge clay pots outside. Casa de Artesania is painted in big letters on outside

The Only Brit In The Hamlet

 

         

 

Book a stay at Cerro Limon (Lemon Hill) 

A London-based buddy of mine bought and tastefully restored a cute cottage in the heart of a very traditional, white-washed hamlet just 30 mins north of Malaga city.  She uses it for periodic escapes but is happy to let others enjoy the space too.  The views are breathtaking, the opportunities for uplifting walks are limitless and the neighbours will treat you with warmth and generosity. It’s ideal to kick back and chill or use as a base to explore the whole region.  Oh, and if you’re looking to brush up on your classroom Spanish, this delivers true immersion!

 Note: April 2009 This cottage is now for sale. Contact me for full details.

http://www.cerrolimon.com

Architectural Jewel Under Renovation

               

Convento de Canos Santos, Alcala del Valle, Cadiz

Whilst out driving one day in the direction of Jerez, we spotted a huge abandoned ruin majestically perched on a hill in the distance.  Our curiosity was stirred so we decied to try and get to it.  There were no signposts or obvious roads leading in its direction so we headed for what appeared to be the only village in the area.  Surely someone would be able to tell us what it was and how it could be reached.

 

We followed a narrow, climbing road that eventually lead onto a plateau and we could see the village of Alcala del Valle in the distance.  Suddenly, to the left, we spotted a small, broken wooden ‘arrow’ with the word ‘Convento’ etched on it.  So we followed it. As the road turned into a track (and a steep one at that ) we abandoned the car and decided to continue on foot. The silence was deafening and the views that opened before us had been panoramically super-sized. This was going to be a special find. As we turned a corner, we were both stopped in our tracks. The HUGE dilapidated convent was a masterpiece in stone. There was nobody there but we saw a government notice that said that grants had been obtained and renovation was imminent. We explored and marvelled at the beauty-in-waiting. 

 

That first visit was 4yrs ago. We have since watched the transformation and only last week, called the local town hall to ask what was to become of the almost completed project. It’s to be a 35 bedroom hotel with conference and banqueting facilities.  Trust me when I say, this will be a venue like no other.  I look forward to posting up-to-date shots, sometime soon.